08 December 2009

Nanjing Massacre Memorial

Sunday, December 6th, 2009

2009 Dec 06_0016On Dec. 13, 1937 marked the beginning of the Japanese invasion of Nanjing, China.  In the following six weeks approximately 300,000 people were slaughtered in some of the most horrific ways ever imagined.  The 100,000’s of other people that were injured, raped and displaced.  If not for the extreme efforts of a dozen expats that lived in Nanjing the numbers would be astronomically higher. 

The Japanese marched into the city of Nanjing, both land and 2009 Dec 06_0014air assaults from the east.  The Chinese troops fought back but to no avail.  The invaders slaughtered everyone in their path:  civilian, military, man, woman, elderly and infants.  The bodies were left in the streets. The massacre is also referred to  as the Rape of Nanjing.  An untold number of females, I use females as opposed to women due to the ages of females effected were infant to elderly, were sexually assaulted and/or murdered.  

2009 Dec 06_0066During this time there were several expats, American, German, Australian.  John Rabe, a German businessman who was a member of the Nazi Party, saved thousands by harboring them on his property.  Several of the expats lived in the community as  missionaries, businessmen and medical aide.  The ones that were able to travel out of the area smuggled video, photos and letters to the various embassies looking for help for the citizens of Nanjing.2009 Dec 06_0088

Much of the photo documentation that was present to the world was “souvenir” photos taken by the Japanese to bring back to Japan to boast to their countrymen.  One story is of a young child who was not slaughtered and working in a photo printing shop.  The Japanese would bring the shop film and  the child would print copies and hide them till he could get them to one of the “safe” zones.  If not for his bravery many of the horrific events would never have been brought to light. 

The Japanese were eventually brought to trial, with several of them executed, however, the Japanese have not ever acknowledge the massacre as actually occurring and have stated that the atrocities have been greatly embellished by the Chinese. 

2009 Dec 06_0076 I spent my afternoon wandering around the memorial this past Sunday. The memorial is located at one of the mass graves that the Japanese used to dispose of over 10,000 souls.  The memorial started as a construction site when the bodies were being excavated, however, due to mass quantity of remains, removal was halted and the area was developed as a memorial to the events.  There is a large museum on the grounds with many items found at the site and donated by the survivors.  It is very graphic but very professional presented.  Those of you that have never been to a Chinese m2009 Dec 06_0027useum need to know that many of them are well, tacky and amateurish. This is not but it is full of  photos of the deceased and the atrocities committed. There are several statues around the grounds.  Including two cast from two women that were survivors of the “sex clubs” and foot prints of other survivors.  Two building are actually exposed areas of the burial pits.  One is shaped like a Chinese coffin, which the Chinese rarely use any longer, cremation is the burial of choice or necessity, 2009 Dec 06_0032I am not sure.  The larger of the two is a walkway around one of the excavation areas with dozens of remains exposed, from this room you walk back out into a courtyard with a  prayer area and an eternal flame.  Walk through the next doorway and you are in the2009 Dec 06_0039 room of lights, it has mirrored  walls and several hanging lights creating a massive space of 1000’s of lights – out the door way is a reflective pool with a large statue entitled Peace.  

The walk into the memorial grounds is a bit complicated.  It is full of modern statuary in a long reflective pool.  There are a dozen of pieces each representing people affected during the Invasion. 

2009 Dec 06_00052009 Dec 06_0006 2009 Dec 06_0010

I debated for several days on what or if to post anything here about the Memorial.  I decided obviously to post.  As we are remembering the Attack on Pearl Harbor and the Holidays are in full swing.  I think it is important to remember the previous generations struggles and sacrifices.  I am writing to tell anyone who reads this about the Nanjing Massacre.  Previous to moving to China, I was ignorant to China’s struggles.  Chairman Mao was a cartoon figure to my generation…one of the big bad Communist.  Russians were evil, Cuba was evil and China - evil.  Now, I have hosted exchange students from Moscow, I would love to hang out on a Cuban beach and I think I may be a little Chinese in my soul.  

24 November 2009

Time keeps on Slipping Slipping Slipping…into the Future.

I know I haven’t spent nearly enough time or effort here.  I have only a few weeks and I am making my first real trip back to the US.  Those of you may go….you went for Nicole’s wedding.  Well, you are right but I don’t count that as a US trip  as true trip home.  My total time spent in the actual US was in a hotel room off of the O’Hare Airport for about 14 hours.  There was no Taco Bell, no shopping and no Sonic.  Okay, so I guess you can guess that I am missing crap American foods. 

Bill, Derek and I fly out the second week of December and will not return to China until early January.  I am so excited to spend some time with our family and friends. 

I have noticed that I am in this rut though while I countdown the days to our holiday.  I cannot get out of China fast enough.  It is just a mental drain to go out and deal with the Chinese.  The haggling, endless searching for items that were available last week and have disappeared this week.  I am just wiped. 

Today, a friend and I went to find coco powder, mozzarella cheese and some other various items.  It took three stops at expat minded grocery stores and we still didn’t find everything.  Fortunately the stuff we cannot find can be substituted, something that you do often.  Julia Childs has nothing on us. 

Time keeps on slipping slipping into the future…just not fast enough.

01 November 2009

WTF

So I was randomly wandering around Yahoo this afternoon and saw these two photos.  This is the 1st Sam’s Club to open in China.  It is in a town called Guangzhou whish is much more expat oriented than Nanjing.  The Walmart in Nanjing is very disappointing if you are hoping to walk into a westernized business…however, I have not seen any crocodile for sell in the deli area.  TIC!

A decoration sets up in front of Walmart's first Sam's Club ...

A decoration sets up in front of Walmart's first Sam's Club during the opening ceremony in China's southern city, Guangzhou Tuesday, Oct. 27, 2009.

(AP Photo/Vincent Yu)

capt_c0cf09a06f544dd3a2fd079bf9b8cc5f_china_walmart_xvy104Crocodiles are on sale at Walmart's first Sam's Club after the opening ceremony in China's southern city, Guangzhou Tuesday, Oct. 27, 2009.

(AP Photo/Vincent Yu)

28 October 2009

When the kids are away….the Momma’s will play

2009 Oct 27_6729This week is Trip Week for Nanjing International School.  My son is spending Monday through Friday camping on a beach outside of Hong K ong proper. They are tent camping and had to hike into the site carrying all their supplies for the week.  The day activities are to include: kayaking, snorkeling, biking, hiking, etc. 

So what is a mother to do….

This week I have spent some time with a couple other childless2009 Oct 27_6731 mothers.  We have wandered around Nanjing aimlessly.  It is a bit weird knowing that you don’t need to be home in the afternoon to take care of the family.  Wine for lunch, why not?  Cosmo’s for dinner, why not? 

I am on day four (Thursday) and I want my kid to come home.  I am bored with the wandering, I am bored with the lack of schedule.  Mind you, I have greatly enjoyed this week but enough, I want my abnormal normal back.

02 October 2009

Bangkok, Thailand: Day Three

82480001

I have been so bad about finishing the Thailand trip.  These are photos are from Day Three’s adventures.  We headed out to the Wat Arun, the oldest Wat in Bangkok.  Our morning was spent there, followed by lunch at a sidewalk cafe.  An afternoon of cocktails at the pool.  Dinner in the Towers Lounge followed by massages. 

 

 

82480012

82480003

 82480011DSC05328DSC05348

 DSC05356 DSC0536682480024

 

DSC05374

Happy 60th Anniversary China!

parade_art

Yesterday, October 1, 2009, China celebrated its 60th Anniversary as a Communist governed country.  There were phenomenal displays of pride and strength around the country.  Beijing was the obvious starting point.  I can honestly say I am probably the most ignorant expat when it comes to Chinese politics.  The presidents name is something like Hu and he seems well liked by the people of this mystical country.  I can say that he is much more photogenic then Chairman Mao.  That isn’t saying much but I judge by the way people make me feel, their aura  if you will. 

Here in Nanjing there were numerous activities around town to celebrate the day.  Parades and dinners during the day but the night was all about the fireworks.  One of the main displays was at Yuahaiti Nan Den, Rainflower Terrace, which is also the site of the Communist Martyr Museum and but a quarter of a mile from our apartment. We watched the fireworks from our north side terrace.  The fireworks were amazing and huge.  The display started at 8pm, remember 8 is a lucky lucky number and as it was the 60th Anniv. the fireworks went for 60 minutes.  Crazy I tell you.  I get bored with the boomers so I kept going out the the south side terrace to watch the show on the bridge that we overlook.  1000’s of Chinese lined up on the bridge to watch the show.  DSC05749Bill and I choose to be  observers and not participate.  As American’s it just feels a bit bizarre celebrating communism.  My grandparents and great grandparents would never understand that option.  I can celebrate thought the advancements that the Chinese have made in the past 60 years.  My understanding of just the past 10 years the changes have been astronomical.  A kin to being a caveman and waking up in 2009.  The things that we think of as common place are still l ooked at here with mystery and unease.  

Take my bread machine.  I just inherited it from a family that was returning to the US and I was using it for one of the first times…my cleaning lady (Ayi) watched me pour all the DSC05773ingredients into the machine turn it on and walk away.  I glanced back and she was standing on a chair and peering into the viewing window watching the paddle mix the dough.  For the next three hours every time the machine beeped she would come running to find me….yelling “T! T!”.  Once the loaf was done I had to send it home with her so she can tell her family about the magic machine that makes bread.  

These are things that happens often enough to remind us how different our world is from what the common Chinese person experiences. 

If you go out into the rural areas something as normal as a digital camera is interesting….special video cameras.  Bill was recording this older gentleman playing his flute, one of the homemade bamboo flutes.  Bill recorded sevDSC05812eral minutes and was asked to show the footage back to the player.  This old man, Bill guessed his age at around 80, got to hear himself play for the first time in his life.  Bill had an interpreter with him so we are sure of the sentiment.  I would love to present the man with a copy of the footage but what is he going to play it on? His laptop?  DVD?

My take on this whole communism thing for the time is that it is doing the best it can for Modern China.  The things lost during Mao’s regime cannot be replaced but the lessons learned are priceless.

As much as I may complain or ridicule about my experiences here, under it all, I love China.  I love the simplicity of the people, I love the fact that everyone here wants to learn, I love when I speak in Chinese to an older person and their eyes just light up because the freaky westerner is saying Hi, I love when the older person speaks back to me in English – maybe I can learn something from them and how is it that they, the generation that lived through Mao was speaking English?DSC05789  I love the Chinese food, well, most of it.  I love the monasteries and the temples.  I love the kids following me around wanting to practice their English and I love the little babies with their chubby cheeks and onyx colored eyes.

Happy Commie Day to all my Chinese friends and family!

 

The government building by our house.